I finally got my hands on an out of print book I’ve been wanting for years: Jewelry by Architects by Cleto Munari. It’s one of those titles that kept popping up in my orbit, and for good reason. The pieces inside are wildly playful and sculptural, unconcerned with tradition or convention.
They lead with form and structure, letting ideas unfold through volume, proportion, and material rather than following the well worn rules of how a piece of jewelry “should” be made or worn. The result is bold, often unexpected, and totally unafraid of breaking norms.
A few names in the book felt like a personal fan-girl moment. Ettore Sottsass and Peter Shire, both part of the Memphis Group, have long been favorites of mine.
Necklace by Ettore Sottsass // Ring by Peter Shire
If you’ve been following my work for a while, you might remember my Mirage Hoops, which took cues from Sottsass’ Ultrafragola mirror and its graphic, wavy lines. His work has always reminded me that joy and intellect can live side by side.
The Mirage hoops, a nod to Ultrafragola.
As someone who came to jewelry through a nontraditional path, I’ve always felt a kinship with designers who approach making from another angle. Architecture and jewelry might seem worlds apart at first glance, but they share a deep concern for form, proportion, and how objects relate to the body or the built environment. There’s a kind of freedom that comes from designing without strict allegiance to traditional jewelry norms. That openness is something I really admire, and try to hold onto, in my own work.
A couple of my jewelry designs that lead with form.
If you ever get the chance to flip through Jewelry by Architects, I highly recommend it. It’s a reminder that the best work often comes from letting yourself wander a little, following curiosity before you follow convention.
Playful rings by Michele de Lucchi.